Nov 23, 2022
The Extinct Volcano and Sacred Site of Murayama Ha-yama
Former Dewa Sanzan peak in inland Yamagata Prefecture with an extensive Shugendo and Mountain Worship history.
Murayama Ha-yama is a former Dewa Sanzan peak located next to Gassan boasting incredible autumn views along the edge of a long-extinct volcano.
Full article including why I think Hayama is the most common name for a mountain in Japan here.
Murayama Hayama lies right next to the Dewa Sanzan, the three sacred mountains of Dewa in Yamagata prefecture. An important part of the journey our souls take before reaching the summit of the looming Gassan, Murayama Hayama also has an interesting backstory in and of itself.
In truth, Murayama Hayama had been on my bucket list even before I started the 100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata project. Although these days Murayama Hayama is just a regular ‘edge mountain’, in the past it was a Dewa Sanzan peak.
The Shugendo History of Murayama Ha-yama
With a Shugendo history dating back to the Nara Period (710–784), along with Haguro-san and Gassan, until the Edo period (1603–1868), Murayama Hayama formed the three Dewa Sanzan peaks. At that time, Yudono-san was the Oku-no-in (inner sanctuary), rather than one of the three mountains itself.
Traditionally, worshippers would climb Haguro-san, Murayama Hayama, and Gassan. Then, and only then would they go on to Yudono-san, and emerge feeling as if they have received a new life (so-called ‘rebirth’). With all that in mind, allow me to share with you my experience climbing Murayama Hayama, the ‘edge mountain’ of the Dewa Sanzan.
Hiking Murayama Hayama
When I arrived at the trailhead to Murayama Hayama, I had no idea what to expect. For one thing, one of the grandmothers was adamant that I had to hear about her knack for finding edible mushrooms, and the glorious feast she made for her husband just the night before.
Or take, for example, the bunch of elementary school boys on an excursion for their volleyball club. Rather than climbing mountains, these boys seemed more obsessed with the catchphrases of recently deceased professional wrestler Antonio Inoki, spending much of the hike shouting ‘Genki desu ka?’ and ‘ichi, ni, san, daa!’ at the top of their lungs.
Then of course there were our guides for the day, the Sagae Alpine Club. This well-experienced bunch of hikers, none younger than 70, featured members who had climbed K2 and even Everest before. Needless to say, I was in good company, and looking forward to a day of autumn leaves, alpine shrines, and the spectacular vistas of Murayama Hayama.
Murayama Hayama Location
Murayama Hayama lies in three municipalities; Sagae and Murayama Cities, and the town of Okuramura, home to Hijiori Onsen. However, as the only 100 Famous Mountain of Yamagata in Sagae City, and since I was invited to climb by Matsuda-san of Sagae City, credit needs to go to them (right?).
Known for the astonishing greenery of summer, and the changing leaves of autumn, Murayama Hayama is also famous as the only mountain from where all six of Yamagata Prefecture’s 100 Famous Mountains of Japan are visible (Chokai-zan, Gassan, Zao-san, Ide-san, Nishiazuma-yama and Oasahi-dake).
The Extinct Volcano of Murayama Hayama
Becoming increasingly evident as you walk the trails, Murayama Hayama is an extinct volcano. On one side of the mountain, we find the bountiful rice fields and rivers of inland Yamagata Prefecture. The surrounding landscape is dotted with numerous hamlets that eventually merge into the sprawling metropolises of Obanazawa, Higashine, Tendo, Yamagata, and Sagae. Cities that are themselves surrounded by mountains.
On the other side of the ridge, the cliffs fall sharply in a distinct cone shape, with nothing but forest and the occasional mountain stream to break up the monotony. Then, if you let your eye follow the crater rim around to the west, in the distance you see it; Murayama Hayama’s Oku-no-in inner sanctuary, Hakuban Jinja. Murayama Hayama itself is believed to be the Kami of crops, an object of mountain worship (sangake suhai) prayed to for an abundant harvest for millennia. This alone was why large numbers visited the peak since ancient times.
Murayama Hayama’s Flora and Fauna
Murayama Hayama boasts beech forests near the summit, as well as rare alpine flowers such as Ranzania (Togakushishoma), Enkianthus campanulatus (Sarasadodan), Hakusan Rhododendron (Hakusanshakunage), and avens (Chinguruma). Avens are designated prefectural natural monuments. Raccoon dogs, Japanese marten, Asian black bears, and civets also reside on the mountain.
Luckily, or not, we didn’t come across any of these animals on our hike, but we did get to bask in the glory of the autumn leaves. Much like the epitome of autumn leaves, Taizo-san, shows, I’ve always said that autumn is the best time of year in Japan. Climbing Murayama Hayama in October only proves my point.
Bring your own Bottle
The hike up The Hata Trail starts at the Hayama Shimin-so, a purpose-built hut for visitors to the mountain. When you come, bring empty drink bottles, as right in front of the Hayama Shimin-so is a water spring called Chomei-sui, the spring of longevity. This water comes straight from the source, it just doesn’t get fresher than that.
From the Shimin-so, the trail first goes through a deep cedar forest. Keep on going up the steep slopes and eventually the forest changes to a combination of beech and larch. Along the way there are a few lookouts, and eventually you will come out at Hanabatake, the field of flowers. This is Murayama Hayama’s main ridge, and where we meet the Iwano and Shamu trails.
The Volcanic Ridge of Murayama Hayama
The ridge is where the fact that Murayama Hayama was a volcano is extremely evident. Look into the centre and you can see a clear cone full of forests and mountain streams. Look out, and you can see inland Yamagata, and in the distance, many of the other mountains of Yamagata prefecture. In the distance, it’s also possible to catch a glimpse of the small Hakuban Jinja, our destination.
Follow the ridge around to the left, going up and over first Ko-mori, and then O-mori, two of the peaks of Murayama Hayama. The steep rocks and ropes of Ko-mori and O-mori proved a little challenging for our elementary-aged friends. However, they all made a valiant effort and were able to get past, albeit with a few scratches and bruises. It’s all part of the experience though!
Then, there is a turnoff for the summit. The summit is a clearing that offers expansive views over the surrounding mountains and the villages and cities of inland Yamagata Prefecture. However, the real attraction of Murayama Hayama has got to be Hakuban Jinja, another 20 or so minutes away.
Hakuban Jinja
Reaching Hakuban Jinja gives you a real sense of achievement. Looking back, you can see just how far you’ve come. Plus, the surrounding cliff faces coupled with the autumn leaves are a real sight to behold. If you look towards the north-west, you can also make out the Shonai region, and The Sea of Japan. If the weather is favourable, you can see the behemoth that is Chokai-zan as well. This alone makes the 3 or so hours it takes to get there well worth it.
Then it’s just a matter of retracing your steps all the way back to Shimin-so, taking in the autumn leaves as you do. When you arrive, there is a small shop there selling local produce for cheap, small reward for a hike well done.
Hata Trail (3 hours one-way)
The Hata Trail starts at Hayama Shimin-so, a purpose-built mountain hut with the Chomei-sui ‘spring of longevity’ spring water, and a farmer’s market right nearby. This trail includes many recommended spots such as the primeval forests, lookout over the Murayama region, and the Ostubo Rock with its amazing views. The trail takes you to the Oku-no-in (Hakuban Jinja) and over Kozo-mori, Ozo-mori, and Murayama Hayama’s summit.
The Iwano Trail from the Murayama City side, and Shamu Trail meet the Hata Trail at the field of flowers.
Yamano-uchi Trail (4 hours one-way)
Although Murayama Hayama’s longest and most demanding trail with a difficult rocky area in the area along the way, the Yamano-uchi trail is blessed with great views. The trailhead begins at the Otori gates at the end of the forest road, where you can park your car. After about one hour along the steep ridge that goes through the primeval beech forest, you will come across the beautiful Takimi-dai waterfall.
Following that, there is a rock called the Toriboshi-ishi (bird’s hat rock) that requires the use of a rope to get past. A little while after weaving your way past the steep slopes of Kogomuro-yama (uncertain reading, 古御室山), you will come across some marshlands. Then, keep following the path while keeping an eye on the Zazen-ishi (Zazen rock) to the left, and you will come to a junction leading to the summit and Oku-no-in. The view from the Oku-no-in is more open.
The road to the trailhead is unpaved and there are bumps along the way, but normal cars should be able to get there fine.
Jubuichi-Toge Trail (90 minutes one-way) (Access road currently closed)
The Jubuichi Toge trail is considered the easiest of all trails up Murayama Hayama. The road among the forest up to the trailhead is narrow and made of dirt, so be careful when using it. Furthermore, there is only limited space for cars to park, so be aware of this when parking. For winter, Route 458 to the Jubuichi trailhead closes from mid-November to June the following year.
Hijiori Trail (2 hours 30 one-way)
The Hijiori Trail is more suited to intermediate and above hikers due to the constant incline from the start, and the narrow and slippery-at-times trail. This does mean that the sense of accomplishment at the summit is something special, however. The Hijiori Trail offers a large variety of mountain vegetation, including, depending on the season, fresh mountain vegetables and mushrooms. At the trailhead, there is space for about five cars. The same as the Jubuichi-toge trail, the road to the trailhead, Route 458, closes from November to mid-June.
Nearby locations worth visiting
Gassan and Ubaga-take
Haguro-san and Yudono-san are on the opposite side of Gassan from where Murayama Hayama lies, however Murayama Hayama has trailheads to Gassan. The other option would be to go to the Gassan Ski Lift in Nishikawa Town, from where Ubaga-take and Gassan are accessible.
Dewaya Ryokan in Nishikawa
Famous for its unique take on Dewa Sanzan mountain vegetable cuisine, Dewaya Ryokan in Nishikawa is a must-see / must-stay Ryokan (traditional Japanese Inn) in Nishikawa Town.
Yukihira Coffee in Nakayama Town
Yukihira Coffee is a tiny coffee stand in Nakayama Town, just south of central Sagae. Offering both blends and single origin coffee, Yukihira Coffee is one of the best cafes I have found in the prefecture. They also have a selection of sweets (try the Canelé!), and a range of coffee-making paraphernalia that is sure to please any coffee-lover.
Murayama Ha-yama in Sagae City | （村山）葉山
Murayama Ha-yama is known for:
- Former Dewa Sanzan Peak
- Extinct volcano whose ridge you hike along
- Hakuban Jinja, awesome shrine on one of the numerous peaks
- Shugendo history
Murayama Ha-yama ((村山)葉山(むらやま)はやま) is a 1462m (4796 ft.) peak in the Shonai region of Yamagata prefecture. Murayama Ha-yama is open from June to October. Murayama Ha-yama is a level 3 in terms of physical demand, which means it is moderate to hike, has an A technical grade, which means it requires little expertise, and you want to allow at least 3 hours for a climb.
Mountain Range: Murayama Hayama
Region: Murayama
Elevation: 1462m (4796 ft.)
Technical Demand: A (requires little expertise)
Physical Demand: 3(moderate hike)
Trails: Four. 1) Hata Trail (3 hours one-way) , 2) Yamano-uchi Trail (4 hours one-way), 3) Jubuichi-Toge Trail (90 minutes one-way) (Access road currently closed), 4) Hijiori Trail (2 hours 30 one-way)
Best time to climb: June to October
Day trip possible? Yes
Minimum Time Required: 3 hours
Murayama Ha-yama Map
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100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata Peaks
- Exploring The Yamabushi Trails of Kinbo-zan
- Sakura Mountain: Arakura-yama
- Whetting your appetite for wetlands on Takadate-yama
- The Hidden Side of Haguro-san (Haguro Kodo)
- The Shogun and the Falcon, How I “Conquered” Japan: Nihon-koku
- Dancing in the Dawn Lillies: Shoga-dake and The Fuji of The North
- Bananas and Cokes, Leaches and Pit Vipers: Kumanonaga-mine
- Reaching Peak Tranquility on Atsumi-dake
- Sanze’s Little Helper: Fujikura-yama
- The Dewa Sanzan’s “Mountain of Death” — Gas-san
- The Dewa Sanzan’s “Mountain of Rebirth” — Yudono-san
- Womb Passes and Monkey Crossings: Kyogakura-yama — The Shugendo Peak of Sutras
- Mythical Beasts, Buddha’s Mother and Buried Yamabushi Treasure? Welcome to Maya-san
- The Widow’s Peak: Ubaga-take
- The Epitome of Autumn Leaves in North Japan: Taizo-san
- Mother. Hunter. Mountain. Hokari-yama
- Homer Simpson’s Heaven in North Japan: The Donut-shaped Yonetaihei-zan
- The Medieval Castle and Mighty River of Yamuki-yama
- Panoramas and picnics under the Sakura: Kita-yama
- Yozo-san: White Snakes, White Monkeys and Slimy Salamanders
- Abandoned Ski Field and Phantom Forest of Tsuchiyu-yama (Mt. Tsuchiyu)
- Turtles, Tigers, and a Legendary Japanese Character: Kamewari-yama
- Zao-san and Why We Climb Mountains
- Japan Has Pyramids? — Yakushi-san and The OG Japan content creator
- Venerable Old Man Mountain — The Mist and Mystery of Okina-san
- Why this mountain is EVERYWHERE in Japan — Murayama Ha-yama
